Women's Wear Daily
Just shy of one year into Business, Women's Wear Daily profiles Darby Scott as an Up-and-Coming Entrepreneur and Designer.
New York Now
WWD, Monday, September 18, 1995
Minding Her Own Business
New York - During her almost 10 years in the fashion industry, Karen Darby Scott, 33, witnessed the fast rise and decline of a slew of young designers.
So when she branched out on her own in April 1994 with a collection of ready-to-wear designs, she turned to a few of her Harvard B-School friends for a stack of case studies.
"In this business, it's not enough just to be creative, you have to be very good in business, understanding every facet of the operation, from sourcing to pricing of the garments," said Scott, who has held jobs ranging from merchandiser to in-house designer and taken business classes here to bone up on such financial topics as venture capital. "There are so many designers who can sketch beautifully, but without strong business skills, you have no foundation."
To get herbusiness off the ground, she borrowed seed money from relatives. Now, her hard work is paying off, and she is fast cultivating a loyal following for her elegant, asymmetrical designs.
In January, Scott moved into her first showroom at 260 West 39th St., with plans to expand the space over the next several months. Since June, Saks Fifth Avenue has been selling her designs, which wholesale from $425 to $900, at 18 stores. Branches include Chicago, New York and Chevy Chase, Md.
Scott is also working with Bergdorf Goodman to create a pricier line of evening wear that will be tested at the store for spring selling. The wholesale price willtop at $1,500.
The Darby Scott label, which targets women from their 20s to mid 50s, can also be found at 20 specialty stores around the country, including Rizik Brothers in Washington, D.C., Suzanne's in Boston and Celebrity on Paces, in Atlanta.
"The quality is exceptional, the look is traditional," said Nicole Fiscelis, fashion director at Saks Fifth Avenue, which recently did well with a black tiered cocktail dress in four-ply silk, priced at $885. "We sold out in many of her items."
Despite a strong reaction from retailers, Scott emphasized that she wants to grow her business slowly. She estimated sales will hit $200,000 this year, and with projections of $325,000 the following year.
"I want to be around for a long time. I want to sustain a level of quality in my garments." said Scott, who still pitches her own line to retail buyers in order to develop a personal relationship with them.
A Smith College graduate, Scott has had stints a Perry Ellis Menswear and at several major private label firms, working in merchandising and design positions. She worked as the women's designer for the North American division at Aquascutum of London from 1992 to 1994, just before she launched her collection.
For resort/early spring, Scott, who up until now has used primarily four-ply silk, is now focusing on high-twist heavy georgette.
"It has amazing drapability," she said. "You can also squeeze it in your hand, and it won't wrinkle."
Her color palette for resort/early spring features icy pales, aquamarines, washed-out pinks and varying shades of ivory.
The resort/early spring line includes A-line dresses with her signature asymmetrical edge, hitting above the knee in front but falling lower in the back; allover lace dresses; gowns with fully boned strapless bustiers, and halter gowns in silk georgette with low back and a long silk cascade stemming from the low back.
One of Scott's repeat items is her signature bolero jacket in triple georgette or four-ply silk cut at an angle, with either bell or scalloped sleeves.
~ Anne D'Innocenzio
